Old-Fashioned Burger Stand Burgers & Easy French Fries

by Julie Ruble on August 7, 2010 · 40 comments

I wish I were gymnastically inclined. If I could do a cartwheel or two or three hundred, maybe I could express how excited I am about sharing this recipe with you. Instead, I am the girl who, in middle school, somehow body-slammed herself onto the hard gym floor mid-cartwheel-attempt. They make gymnastics mats for a reason, gym teachers.

I will not be trying that again. You’ll have to trust me when I say I’m flipping around the room in spirit. Because these. burgers. are. amazing.

They are not gourmet burgers. They’re not sporting Gruyere, truffle oil, shallots, or mushrooms — not that those ingredients wouldn’t be tasty on some burger, somewhere. Just not this one.

They are not Texas-sized steakburgers. You do not need to dislocate your jaw to take a bite, they do not include exotic spices or a pile of complementary toppings — though you know I love a burger like that on occasion. It’s just not this burger’s style.

These are the burgers your fast food burger could taste like (you guys know the Old Spice commercial, right?). The burgers they’re trying their hardest to replicate in every establishment that owns a drive-thru.

These are thin, fall-apart tender, juicy, salty burgers with a slight crisp crust, smothered in melty cheese, onions, and tangy burger sauce before being smooshed into a pillowy, sweet, toasted potato roll. Swoon.

Imagine the best 1950s burger stand — one that carefully wraps its burgers in wax paper and sends them out dripping in burger sauce with a side of crispy fries. Maybe via a roller skating waitress. These are those burgers. Christopher Kimball called them something like the “ultimate indulgence burgers” — exactly!

In case you’re nervous about the fact that you grind your own meat for this burger, I need to tell you that they’re also easy. I would stick these babies on the menu any weekend without a second thought. You can also make the patties and freeze them sandwiched between sheets of waxed paper, making this recipe perfect for weeknights as well (thaw for 30 minutes at room temperature before using).

The basic method is as follows: cut chunks of meat, freeze it for a bit, grind it in a food processor, gather your patties loosely, season, cook in hot skillet, melt cheesy goodness on top, and place on sauced, toasted bun. I made my sauce and sliced my onions the night before, and so the whole process was quick as a whip.

The burgers stay super tender because you don’t pack them into patties with your hands the way you might form other burgers. After grinding the meat, you try not to touch it much at all, gathering it into piles with your spatula and only then gently pressing it against a sheet pan or tray into a loose patty with plenty of crevices. You want it where it’s only just sticking together.

Heavy salting and a smoking hot pan make for a nice crisp crust on the patty. You don’t need to worry about cooking it to medium rare or medium or any of that — as Kenji from America’s Test Kitchen said, because of the way you form the patties, there’s no way to overcook this burger into toughness. No matter what, it’s tender and perfect.

Grab your glass bottles o’ coke and some roller skates, and let’s make some burger magic!

Old-Fashioned Burger Stand Burgers



Recipe by: Cooks Illustrated
Yields: 4 burgers

Ingredients:
10 ounces sirloin steak tips, cut into 1-inch chunks (look for meat that has a striated texture to be sure you have the right cut. Flank steak may be substituted)
6 ounces boneless beef short ribs, cut into 1-inch chunks
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
4 soft hamburger buns (potato rolls)
1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil
4 slices American cheese (don’t substitute! American cheese has the perfect texture for this recipe)
Thinly sliced onion

Classic Burger Sauce Ingredients:
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoon ketchup
1/2 teaspoon sweet pickle relish
1/2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon white vinegar
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

Directions:
1. Mix ingredients for burger sauce and refrigerate it until you’re ready for it.
2. Place chunks of meat onto baking sheet about 1/2 inch apart. Freeze until very firm, hard around the edges, but still pliable (15-25 minutes).
3. Grind meat in a food processor in two batches, using 10 to 15 one-second pulses and redistributing meat in the processor as necessary. Transfer the meat to a tray or baking sheet without touching it — just overturn the processor bowl onto the tray. You want to touch the meat as little as possible from here on out. Discard gristle or hunks of fat.
4. Gently separate ground meat into 4 equal mounds using a spatula. Shape each mound gently (without picking it up) into a patty about 4 inches in diameter and thin (about 1/4 inch thick), leaving edges ragged and crevices in the burger. Season top of each patty liberally with salt and pepper. Use a spatula to flip patties and season the other side. Stick them in the refrigerator while you toast the buns.
5. Melt 1/2 tablespoon butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat until it foams. Toast 4 buns, tops and bottoms, in batches until golden brown. Set aside and wipe out the skillet.
6. Put skillet on high heat. Add oil and heat until just smoking. Using a spatula, put all 4 patties into the skillet and cook without moving for 3 minutes. Flip burgers over gently and cook for 1 minute. Top each with a slice of American cheese and cook for another minute.
7. Place patties onto bun bottoms and place sliced onions on top. Spread burger sauce on each bun top, cover burgers, and serve immediately.

Oh yeah, and those fries! They’re crisp and lovely, and just as easy as the burgers, if not easier. You’re talking to someone who inevitably burns the first batch of anything she’s trying to fry, and often doesn’t get a single usable piece of food out of the entire experience. Nevertheless, these were simple even for me. You don’t even need to measure the temperature of the oil!

To make fries super simple, Cooks Illustrated starts them in cold oil. Surprisingly, they don’t get soggy or absorb oil. You’re then supposed to bring them to a boil, leave them for 15 minutes without touching them, make sure none are stuck to the bottom, and cook for a few minutes more until golden brown. The times were a little off for me and I feared 15 minutes left alone would be too long, so I started scraping them off the bottom a tad earlier and they didn’t break apart. I’d just recommend keeping your eye on them. If you can watch a pot, you can make these fries.

You may have noticed that I went a little crazy with my food stylin’ for this photo shoot. I couldn’t help it! I love these little burgers so much, I wanted to give them the star treatment. It added so much fun to the meal.

I bought some coke in glass bottles, sweet little mustard and ketchup dispensers, and food-grade checked wax paper. A lot of these great materials were on sale after Independence Day. I then downloaded and adapted the template for the burger tray and little fry pouch from Bakerella, who used it for her adorable faux-burgers.

Want to present a meal to your family in these sweet little checkered trays and fry pouches? Download the template here, print it on cardstock, cut around the outside borders, fold the tabs over and glue them. If you’d like to change what the fry pouch says, just crop out my logo and paste in your own.

Easy French Fries



Recipe by: Cooks Illustrated
Yields: about 2-3 servings

Ingredients:
2 1/2 lbs Yukon Gold Potatoes (about 6 medium), scrubbed, dried, sides squared off, and cut length-wise in 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch batons (strips)
6 cups peanut oil
1/4 cup bacon fat, strained, optional
Kosher salt

Belgian-Style Dipping Sauce Ingredients:
5 tablespoons mayonnaise
3 tablespoons ketchup
1 medium garlic clove, minced
1/2 teaspoon hot sauce
1/4 teaspoon table salt

Directions:
1. Mix all ingredients for Belgian-Style Dipping Sauce together and refrigerate until needed.
2. Put potatoes, oil, and bacon fat (if using) into a large Dutch oven or stock pot. Cook over high heat about 5 minutes or until the oil reaches a good rolling boil. Cook without stirring until potatoes are limp but their exteriors are firm enough to scrape stuck ones off the bottom without breaking. The original recipe says 15 minutes, but keep an eye on them and try a little early (gently).
3. Using tongs, stir potatoes, gently loosening any that are sticking to the bottom, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until golden the fries are golden brown and crisp, about 5 to 10 minutes longer. Use a slotted spoon to transfer fries onto a bed of paper towels over a baking sheet. Salt and serve immediately, while hot, which Belgian-Style Dipping Sauce.

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{ 35 comments… read them below or add one }

Jordan August 8, 2010 at 12:37 am

These look amazing Julie! I love loading as much as I can onto my burgers. These look like decadence in a bun! Not to mention the fries…

I’m drooling.

Seriously.

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Julie August 8, 2010 at 12:39 am

Thanks, Jordan! They were so, so tasty!

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Betty @ scrambled hen fruit August 8, 2010 at 12:49 am

Never mind that it’s after midnight, I want one of those burgers right now! I haven’t had red meat in a couple of weeks and this burger looks like a great way to break that fast. I guess I’m going to have to pull out the old meat grinder and give’r a whirl. But I’ll show ultimate will power and wait until tomorrow. Thanks!

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Julie August 8, 2010 at 12:51 am

I know what you mean, Betty, because when I saw these on America’s Test Kitchen, I started scheming about the soonest I could possibly make them! :) Enjoy!

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Wanda Goodall August 8, 2010 at 9:18 am

Julie….these burgers sound and look so scrumptous!!! I will definitely try your sauce recipes. Thanks for posting!!!!

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PJ Mullen August 8, 2010 at 9:24 am

After doing a birthday burger bar for my son’s second birthday I became convinced you’ve never really had a burger until you ground your own meat and made them yourself. I like the idea of beef short ribs, I’m going to have to try that. I usually use Michael Symon’s Lola burger mix – 40/40/20 of chuck/sirloin/brisket. Great post, and now I want a burger :)

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Julie M. August 8, 2010 at 11:43 am

Julie, you spare no expense!! Not only are these burgers absolutely delicious looking, but your food styling is crazy impressive! Now, what time can I be there for dinner?

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Joanne August 8, 2010 at 2:20 pm

Oh my god these are GORGEOUS! It’s hard to find a burger that looks as pretty as this but by god you’ve done it!

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Rachel August 8, 2010 at 2:24 pm

I asked my boyfriend, “would you like me to make some burgers with sirloin and –”

“Yes!”

Well, he got sold on the sirloin. It looks I will be making these in the future.

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Anna Johnston August 8, 2010 at 6:14 pm

A burger made from scratch, love it!! Love the ‘moochy goodness’ – it looks great.

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Shannon @ bakeandbloom.com August 9, 2010 at 12:58 am

I love a good thick burger like that. When I was a kid there was this shop by the beach called Betties Beach Burgers that were only $1!

They had to eventually raise the price to $2 & then they redeveloped the building & kicked Betties Beach Burgers out. It was a travesty.

Anyway, thanks for making me remember. These look super yummy.

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Nachiketa August 9, 2010 at 1:10 am

You make me so hungry with this post….

Amazing post… :)

Cheers,
The Variable, Crazy Over Desserts – Nachiketa
Catch me on facebook @ Crazy Over Desserts

Reply

Patrick O'Toole August 9, 2010 at 3:24 am

Having lived overseas for the past four years, that is the burger that I’ve been missing for so long. When I fall asleep tonight I will imagine eating that!

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Towanda August 9, 2010 at 10:35 am

OH MY! This looks heavenly! I am trying the fries this week. I never thought of starting in cold oil. Thanks for the tip.

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theteachercooks August 9, 2010 at 4:26 pm

I love Cook’s Illustrated, too. Your burgers and fries look so good. I am a teacher, too. What do you teach?

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Julie August 9, 2010 at 4:47 pm

Thanks! I teach 6th and 7th grade language arts and, starting this year, a “home cooking” elective for middle and upper schoolers. How about you?

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Mary August 9, 2010 at 9:56 pm

Crazy good presentation! I’m hungry now!

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Julie August 13, 2010 at 12:07 pm

Thank you, Mary :)

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Andrea @ Thin Thighs & Sweet Potato Fries August 10, 2010 at 9:10 am

Omg, LOVE your french fry pouch and your “traditional burger joint” food stylin’! Too cute! And as always, your meal has me wanting to revert back to my cheeseburger-eating days! ;) Maybe we should skip Rusan’s next week and make a reservation at Willow Bird Baking! :D

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Julie August 13, 2010 at 12:08 pm

Aw, haha, thanks Andrea! Dinner Chez Willow Bird ;) I like it.

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Monica H August 11, 2010 at 2:45 am

I saw this post a couple days ago but didn’t have time to comment. I clicked off your blog craving a burger, fries and a cold coke in a bottle. Total comfort food :-)

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Julie August 13, 2010 at 12:08 pm

Thanks, Monica :)

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Natalie (The Sweets Life) August 13, 2010 at 12:06 pm

could these photos be any cuter?!? I don’t think so! And now I’m craving a burger.. :)

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Julie August 13, 2010 at 12:09 pm

Thank you, Natalie :)

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Ashley August 13, 2010 at 7:54 pm

There’s this old fashioned burger stand near my parents house that was a frequent post beach trip stop. Place only takes cash and had the best burgers, knishes and strawberry milkshakes around (and you can get a double cheeseburger, knish, fries, and strawberry milkshake for less than ten bucks). These burgers remind me of the ones I’d get there.

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Katie August 14, 2010 at 3:59 am

That is making my tummy rumble like mad :p

Katie xox

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Julie August 14, 2010 at 6:36 am
Sophia August 16, 2010 at 1:39 pm

Wow, great job here. Awesome picture too! You should really consider submitting this to Recipe4Living’s Juiciest Burger Contest – http://www.recipe4living.com/articles/the_juiciest_burger_recipe_contest.htm – It looks delicious!

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Julie August 16, 2010 at 1:42 pm

Thanks, Sophia! I thought about that, but this isn’t an original recipe — it’s actually from Cook’s Illustrated.

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Megan September 2, 2010 at 6:00 pm

Your props are so adorable… and now you have me craving a good old-fashioned burger!

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CraigSnedeker November 16, 2010 at 12:24 pm

They look mouth-watering. I must have one!! :D

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Julie @ Willow Bird Baking November 16, 2010 at 2:19 pm

Thanks :)

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CraigSnedeker November 16, 2010 at 2:34 pm

your welcome!! I sent this page to my mom to see what she can do to make it happen and I’ll be sure to let you know how they turn out

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Julie @ Willow Bird Baking November 16, 2010 at 2:35 pm

Great! I hope you all love them! They’re definitely my favorite burgers :)

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IndigoMemoirs June 14, 2013 at 11:53 am

Wow- these really do look like the real deal ;) thank you for the lovely recipe, will be sure to try this out myself. Staying in NY has opened my eyes to making the real traditional staples in the right way – and you’ve nailed it!
http://www.indigomemoirs.com/best-food-in-nyc/

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